Tuesday, March 24, 2009

The Healthy Turtle

Over the past couple of years, turtles have gained a lot of popularity as pets. Turtles can make long lived, interesting and unique household pets. There are four species of turtles that are quite popular in this country as pets; mud turtles, sliders, painted turtles and box turtles. These types of turtles are much smaller than other species of turtles such as the Alligator snapper or the Red Eared snapper, and are much easier to feed and care for. However, there are a number of things you need to know and understand about your turtle so you are able to care for it properly and keep it healthy and content. Keep in mind, the care and feeding requirements will vary somewhat across the different species of turtles.
In general, the turtle will need a fairly large enclosure to live in; usually an aquarium of at least a 20 gallon capacity. If you are keeping more than one turtle or are keeping one of the larger species of turtles, you will need a considerably larger aquarium. Regardless, the aquarium must have a combination of dry and wet habitat to keep the turtle healthy. The turtle must have an area in which he or she can completely submerge in and swim. The turtle must also have a dry sandy area in which to sun, burrow and dig.
Turtles also need some secluded spots in the aquarium in which to hide. In all, the aquarium must consist of a pool of water, a sandy beach, rocks or sticks for the turtle to crawl out on and secluded areas for the turtle to hide in. Plants are not required, but many pet turtle owners put plants in the turtle's aquariums. When placing a plant in the aquarium, make sure you have researched and found out what plants can be poisonous to the specific type of turtle you have. The goal with the aquarium is to come as close as possible to re-creating the turtle's natural environment.
In the wild, turtles are omnivores, eating anything they can catch. Despite the fact that they eat almost anything, your pet turtle should not be fed with random table scraps. The turtle needs a balanced diet. Some pet turtle owners feed a combination of vegetables and live fish. This works, but can quickly become expensive. Most pet stores that sell turtles also sell food sticks that are specifically for turtle nutrition. These food sticks provide a balanced diet, but it is still a good idea to feed the turtle fish on occasion to provide exercise through hunting.
The turtle should be kept in a room with a relative humidity around 80% and a temperature range between 70F and 85F. Many turtle owners use a heat lamp to regulate the temperature in the aquarium. If the turtle gets too cold, he or she will burrow into the sand and hibernate.
These are just a few of the main tips to having a healthy turtle. Make sure to fully understand the specific requirements of the particular breed of pet turtle you have.

Monday, March 23, 2009

Breeding Your Turtles

Pet turtles have become the basis of a booming pet business in the United States and a few other countries. A growing number of people are interested in having a unique and interesting pet that they do not have to devote a lot of time to caring for.
Turtles are relatively easy to care for and feed, as long as you have one of the four smaller species that are commonly seen for sale in the pet stores. The four most common types of pet turtles are the box turtle, the painted turtle, the sliders and the mud turtles. These turtles are small, are easy to contain, do not eat a lot and seem to adapt well to captivity.
Some people have taken up breeding turtles as a hobby or on a commercial basis. Breeding your turtles is certainly possible and can be a great hobby or a potentially profitable business, but there are some things that you will need to know to be successful.
For the turtle to breed, the turtle must feel safe and comfortable. To achieve this, the environment should be as close the natural wild habitat as possible. One way to accomplish this is to set up your turtle's aquarium outdoors, to expose the turtle to the natural progression of the seasons. This will cause the turtle to need to hibernate in the cold months, depending on your location, and you should take steps to prepare your tank to allow the turtle ample opportunity to burrow and hibernate when necessary.
Turtles generally come out of hibernation in late spring, around the month of May, and this is when they are likely to breed. During the breeding process, it is a good idea to watch the turtles closely as they can become overly aggressive. It is also a good idea to remove smaller turtles from contact with larger ones during this time for their own safety, especially smaller males.
After mating, the female turtle will go through a period during which the eggs are being produces. This time is analogous to a human woman's pregnancy, during which she is very tired, moody and stressed. The female turtle's body is putting a lot of resources into forming her eggs and needs to be watched very closely during this time. Once the eggs are formed and ready, the female turtle will want a secluded quiet place to burrow and lay her eggs. She will usually lay about 5 eggs, but this can vary.
You will need to arrange rocks, plants, sticks to create a number of secluded places for the turtle to feel comfortable choosing from. The turtle will need to have access to moist soil, 7 to 10 inches deep in which to burrow and lay her eggs. Once the eggs are laid and buried, you will need to make sure that the soil around them stays moist. The eggs will hatch in about 90 days. The young turtles will need to be kept indoors, in an aquarium and will need to be watched closely to make sure that all are getting plenty of food and are not being bitten by stronger siblings.

Sunday, March 22, 2009

Caring For Your Turtles

Having a pet turtle can be a rewarding and interesting experience. Turtles can make great and unique pets and some are quite long lived, living up to 50 years in some cases. A key to being able to enjoy your pet turtle is knowing how to care for your turtle properly.
There are a lot of different turtle species in the world today, but there are only four species that are popular as pets. Those include the mud turtle, the sliders, the box turtles, and the painted turtles. These types of turtles seem to do a bit better living in captivity than other turtles, and are easier to contain, care for and feed due to their size.
Caring for a pet turtle is mostly about making the turtle's environment in its aquarium as close to the turtle's natural environment as possible. Aquariums are really the best way to house a turtle. The aquarium should be at least 20 gallons in size. The aquarium will need to be filled with sand and will need to have an area with water in it that the turtle can swim and hunt in.
Turtles like to be able to hide, so there should be some rocks, plants and sticks in the aquarium to provide some shelter. When putting plants in the aquarium, be sure to find out what sort of plants can be harmful to the particular type of turtle you are getting.
Turtles are omnivores, but they should not be fed random scraps or spicy human foods. Many pet turtle owners will feed their turtles a combination of vegetables and live fish. In fact, it is possible to feed a turtle mostly raw vegetables and have the turtle thrive. However, the best care for your turtle is a well balanced diet, and that includes more than just vegetables. Many pet stores now carry special turtle food sticks. While the food stick provides all the balanced nutrition that the turtle needs, feeding the turtle live fish periodically will give the turtle some exercise.
Turtles need to be kept between 70F and 85F, so make sure the room you are placing the turtle in has the adequate temperature control. Turtles are used to natural light with a combination of shade and sun. If your are placing your turtle's aquarium in direct sunlight, make sure the turtle has adequate water to drink and plenty of water to swim and submerge in as well as secluded shaded hiding places.
The effect of bright summer sunlight coming through the aquarium's glass can make the entire aquarium too hot for the turtle without shade and water. Many pet turtle owners place a sunlamp above the aquarium to regulate the temperature and light if the aquarium is in a room that does not receive much sunlight or in the winter months when it is difficult to keep the aquarium in the appropriate temperature range. Some owners will place a heating pad underneath the turtle's aquarium in the cold months to provide extra heat.

Saturday, March 21, 2009

Pacman Frog Care Guide

It may have been your favorite video game back in the 1980's, but this iconic video game inspired a unique nickname for the South American horned frog, Argentine horned frog or Ornate Horned Frog. While its real names may be a mouthful, the name Pacman Frog, is certainly easier to remember and actually helps to describe the frog. The Pacman Frog has an unusually large mouth and abdomen which make it look similar to the Pac-Man character in this popular video game.
The Pacman Frog's natural habitat is in the rain forests of Brazil, Uruguay and Argentina where it spends it time eating and hiding under leaves. This frog is certainly known for it's appetite as it will try to eat anything that crosses its path. In the wild the Pacman Frog will eat large spiders, insects, small snakes, lizards and mice. It has sharp front teeth that allow it to devour it's prey, or provide a painful bite to a human. Sometimes said to be an aggressive frog, it may actually bite if it feels threatened, but it may bite simply because it thinks that a finger is actually it's next meal.
Unlike many frogs, the Pacman frog is not exactly the best swimmer and may enjoy just hanging around in shallow water, rather than swimming in deep water. The Pacman Frog has an incredible growth rate; From the time that it is born to the time that it is a fully formed adult is just 2 or 3 weeks and it will grow to 6 or 7 inches long within a few months!
If you choose to keep one as a pet, you will want to create a natural habitat for it. Keep only one Pacman frog in the enclosure, otherwise a larger frog may end up eating a smaller one. Try to setup a very damp, warm area, similar to its natural habitat. Avoid putting deep water anywhere in the enclosure as they may drown. They need to have water, but keep it shallow. Pacman Frogs love to hide under leaves in the wild and in captivity, you must provide a similar hiding spot for them. As for food, live crickets and small mice are best, but remember to purchase them at a pet store. Handle the Pacman Frog as little as possible as they do no enjoy being handled and it causes them to become stressed when handled.
Whether in the wild, or kept as a pet, a Pacman Frog is a beautiful and unique creature. With its large mouth and colorful skin, it is certainly a unique frog.

Friday, March 20, 2009

Pet Green Iguanas

The green iguana has over the last decade become a extremely popular pet in the United States. It may be the most popular reptile pet in the United States today. You see people with pet green iguanas on leashes and carrying them on their shoulder like a parrot. There is no doubt that people love owning such a unique and interesting pet like a pet green iguana!
But before you go out and get a iguana as a pet you should do your research to make sure you truly want it and that you are able to house and care for your pet lizard properly. There is much to consider and understand before owning a green iguana as a pet. You need to understand the proper diet and feeding of a iguana,its environment ,habitat and housing need. The temperature of the housing and humidity is of great importance. Learning how handle and hold your lizard,and all the different health aspects to owning a pet green iguana. Here is something a lot of people fail to consider before owning a green iguana,they can reach over six feet in length. So you have to consider do you have the space needed to house your new pet. I know you may have seen movies where a persons pet iguana is just roaming around the house or apartment this is not being realistic.
Do you really want your pet lizard going to the bathroom where it feels in your home?Also lizards are escape artist,they love to go roaming about and they may end up in your neighbors flower patch(they like eating flowers) or in their garden,or worse yet escape when it is cold out side and die. Green iguanas sometimes can be difficult to tame and at times aggressive. So knowing how to train your pet lizard and teaching it to get use to be handle is something you will also have to deal with when owning one. I am not trying to get not to own one ,in fact they can be great pets,but you do have to realize like any pet there is many care,health,and hosing concerns and training involved in owning a pet lizard.
Iguanas will grow very rapidly and reach adult hood in about two to three years. Healthy young iguanas can be feisty, they run and dart around quickly and often whip their tails when anyone attempts pick them up. Proper temperatures and humidity are extremely important for the health and well being of your pet Green Iguana. Iguanas require a basking temperature of about 95 degrees and the housing temperature of 80 to 85 degrees. this is just an outline and you will need to know and only covers the basics that you will nee to know when owning a green iguana pet,but if you are willing to learn and do what is needed to maintain your pet lizards health,they can be a really cool pet to own!

Thursday, March 19, 2009

Common Iguana Diseases Revealed

As an owner, you can prevent most iguana diseases by providing a proper diet and environment. There are numerous health problems that can result if you fail to do so. Some of these include metabolic bone disease, blister disease, and mouth rot. This article will discuss some of these health conditions.
Metabolic Bone Disease
Metabolic bone disease is one of the most common diseases of captive iguanas. The owner is commonly to blame since it's usually caused by gross malnutrition. The most noticeable sign is when the lower jaw becomes swollen which may cause trouble eating. Other common signs include general lethargy and swollen tail and limbs. The condition needs to be reversed by feeding a proper diet.
Mouth Rot
Another condition caused by malnutrition is mouth rot. Malnutrition leaves iguanas in a weakened condition which makes them susceptible to a bacterial infection of the mouth. Symptoms of mouth rot include increased salivation, mouth swelling, and accumulation of pus within the mouth. Your lizard will need to take antibiotics, fluids, and vitamins to treat this problem.
Paralysis
One of the next common iguana diseases is paralysis of the rear legs or tail. This problem usually occurs because of vitamin B1 deficiency. However, some cases are caused by mineral deficiencies such as calcium. Your lizard will have to receive injections of B vitamins to remedy the situation.
Blister Disease
Blister disease is also relatively common. This condition occurs as the result of poor hygiene and sanitation. This leaves your iguana exposed to bacteria for prolonged periods of time. This causes blisters to develop on the body. If left untreated, the blisters will become severely infected. Blister disease needs to be treated with an aggressive course of antibiotics.
These are some of the most common iguana diseases. If you're a new owner, there are many things you need to learn about green iguana care. So, come on over to green-iguana-care.com to learn everything you need to know such as recognizing the signs of a sick iguana

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Common Iguana Health Problems Revealed

Besides diseases, there are a number of health problems that can affect your iguana. They include egg binding, burns, and abrasions. This article will take a look at some of these common iguana health problems.
Egg Binding
Since only females produce eggs, egg binding only affects them. This life-threatening condition occurs when the female is unable to pass at least one of her eggs from her reproductive tract. Egg binding is usually the result of malformed eggs, malnutrition, or various diseases. An x-ray will have to be done in order to make a definitive diagnosis. A medical or surgical approached can be used to treat egg binding.
Bladder Stones
Bladder stones are also common iguana health problems. They occur when mineral in the urine aren't broken down and allowed to accumulate. This usually causes the iguana to strain while trying to urinate. If one of the stones gets too big, the abdomen may start to swell. Bladder stones can only be diagnosed with an x-ray. Your lizard will have to undergo surgery to have them removed.
Abrasions
Iguanas in captivity will continuously try to escape their enclosure. This means that they will frequently rub and bump their noses against the walls. After a while, this damage can lead to nose abrasions. Sometimes, this can cause permanent damage.
Burns
You must provide a source of lighting and heating for your iguana to remain healthy. However, heat lamps and light bulbs will readily burn your lizard if he's not too careful. Therefore, you will need to make sure you install a protective device on all light bulbs and heat lamps that you use in your iguana's enclosure.
These are some of the most common iguana health problems. If this is your first time owning one, there are many things you need to learn about iguana care
So, click here now to start learning all about things such as feeding iguanas

Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Signs You Have a Sick Iguana

If you take proper care of your iguana, he should rarely get sick. However, if your lizard does fall ill, you'll want to be able to recognize and treat it quickly. There are a few symptoms you can look for to tell if you have a sick iguana. This article will share some of those signs with you.
Appetite
If you take care of your iguana long enough, you will certainly learn his eating habits. If a change in this routine occurs, there may be something wrong. Things to look for include eating less or more than usual. He may also change his usual choice of food when he gets sick. Sometimes, they'll start eating more or stop eating moist food altogether.
Appearance
Your iguana's skin can also help you determine when he's sick. There may be something wrong if the skin becomes loose or dull. The color of the skin may also change.
Iguanas are capable of changing colors slightly due to temperature, stress, or mood. However, this color change usually goes away quickly. A sick iguana may also change colors, which probably won't go away. The skin usually turns brownish in these cases. If you notice this, you should take him to a vet quickly.
Behavior
Once again, after caring for your iguana long enough you should learn how he normally acts. He could be ill if he becomes more or less active than he usually is. He may also start spending a lot more time in a hiding place. If your normally passive iguana suddenly becomes aggressive, you should seek medical counsel.
These are some of the most important signs of a sick iguana. To learn more about green iguana care visit green-iguana-care.com. Taking proper care of your lizard is vital to his health. So, stop by now to learn about things such as common iguana diseases

Monday, March 16, 2009

Three Popular Pet Tree Frogs

Looking for a unique pet that won't take your house over and pretend that they own it? Have you ever considered buying a pet tree frog? Sure, it may not be the first thing to come to mind when you think about a pet, but the fact is, tree frogs make great pets! Tree frogs are different from other frogs since they spend most of their time living in tall trees, rather than hanging around at a pond or creek like other frogs. The only time they usually hang around on the ground is during mating season and they can be found in many regions throughout the world. There are several different types of tree frogs that one might want to have as a pet including the White's Tree frog, Red-Eyed Tree Frog and a Green Tree frog to name just a few.
White's Tree Frog
Originating in the regions of Australia and New Guinea these bright green frogs make great pets. They are not overly active and do not require any special skill to care for them properly. In terms of size, the White's Tree Frog grows to around 4 or 5 inches long and they will live approximately 15 years. Unlike many frogs that hate to be picked up, the White's Tree Frog seems content with being picked up. As for food, if you're wondering what to feed the White's Tree frog, a safe bet would be crickets, meal worms and even baby mice!
Red-Eyed Tree Frog
Just like their name suggests, the Red-Eyed Tree frog has bright red eyes that are noticeable against the bright green color of the frog, with yellow and blue stripes. If you're looking for a unique tree frog with brilliant colors, the Red-Eyed Tree frog is a great option. Red-Eyed frogs are from the rain forests of Central American countries and Costa Rica, which means that when you have them in your home, they need to be kept warm and the air should be very humid. Feeding a Red-Eyed tree frog is easy; Just feed them crickets and they will be very content. These pet frogs will be most active at night and may sleep quite a bit during the day and are very docile.
Green Tree Frog
The Green Tree frog originates in two different regions; the United States and Australia. The Australian Green Tree frog is otherwise known as the White's Tree frog as discussed above.
The American Green Tree frog is found throughout many states in the U.S including Georgia, Florida, Texas, North and South Carolina, Mississippi, Maryland, Delaware and Virginia. The diet of the Green Tree frog consists of crickets, flies, worms and moths, but they are able to go without food for over 48 hours. At 2.5 inches long, they are quite small, but the males are smaller than the females. If you are looking for an inexpensive pet, the Green Tree Frog is perfect as they are often sold for just $10 to $20.
Pet frogs have boomed in popularity in recent years. The Red-Eyed Tree Frog and the White's Tree Frog remain incredibly popular with pet frog owners. If you are looking for a frog for a first time owner, the Green Tree Frog and the White's Tree Frog are both super choices. For more on these and other pet frogs, be sure to visit the Frog World site

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Expert Tips For Trimming Your Iguana's Claws

In the wild, iguanas need sharp claws to climb trees. However, you'll probably want to cut them off so you don't have to worry about them hurting you. Most owners do this at least once a month. This process can prove to be difficult, especially during your first two times. This article will give you a few tips to make trimming your iguana's claws a little easier.
Age
It's best that you start trimming your lizard's claws when he's still very young. If you start while he's young, his claws won't be big enough to cause much damage yet. He will also get used to getting them trimmed so you should have an easier time when he's grown much bigger. Another good reason for starting early is that the claws won't grow as long if you start trimming them at a young age.
Blood
Like other reptiles, iguanas will die if they lose even a modest amount of blood. Therefore, it's important that you don't trim the claw too short. If you do cut it too short, you may nip the blood vessel that runs through the claw and cause bleeding. You should aim for the area just above where the nail starts to curve.
If you do cause bleeding, it's important that you stop it quickly. You can use a commercial blood clotting power or just regular cornstarch. You should hold the bleeding toe in the powder for at least 10 minutes to ensure that all bleeding has stopped.
Fussing
If your iguana isn't used to having his nails trimmed, he will probably fuss and fight. Since they're sharp, you don't want him thrashing them around everywhere. It's a good idea to wrap him completely in a towel leaving only the leg that you're working with out.
Brittle
It's best not to cut the claws when they're very brittle. If his nails are very brittle, then you should wait to cut them after he's had a bath. The water will help make them much less brittle.
These are a few tips for trimming your iguana's claws. There are many more things you need to learn about green iguana care. So, stop by green-iguana-care.com now to learn about things like feeding iguanas

Saturday, March 14, 2009

Dealing With Nose Abrasions in Iguanas

One of the most common problems with keeping iguanas is that they may continuously try to escape. In doing so, they usually rub and bump their noses against the sides of their enclosure. This can result in serious, permanent damage to their nose and face. There are a few things you can do to help prevent your iguana from suffering nose abrasions. This article will share with you some useful advice.
Cage
Most iguanas that continuously try to escape are unhappy with their environment. Therefore, you can help reduce their escape attempts by trying to make their enclosure more to their liking. One of the main problems is that he may be housed in a cage that's too small for him. In this case, you'll need to buy a larger one.
In some cases, you may simply need to provide more vertical space since these lizards love to climb around. You may also want to try adding more branches or rocks to his enclosure. Another hiding spot or two won't hurt either.
Walls
Rough surfaces will increase the likelihood of nose abrasions. This is commonly a problem in cages that walls made with screen or wire mesh. It's best to choose a cage that has smooth wall surfaces so your iguana won't damage his nose if he keeps rubbing it against the wall.
Vision
Another way you can limit escape attempt and subsequent nose abrasions is to limit your iguana's vision. This can easily be done by lining the bottom of the walls with either dark film or paint. Lining the bottom five inches of the wall should be suitable enough.
This will help keep your iguana from trying to escape and causing damage to his nose. If you're a new owner, there are many things you need to learn about caring for iguanas. So, stop by green-iguana-care.com to learn about things such as common iguana health problems

Friday, March 13, 2009

Finding a Pet Poison Dart Frog

Inhabiting countries of South and Central America like Costa Rica, Columbia, Bolivia and Peru, the poison dart frog is a stunning, bright colored frog that secretes a poisonous toxin. The science community only discovered this unique frog in the 1960's, but it has been known by tribes for many years. By the name of the frog, one might think that it is somehow able to shoot poisonous darts, but this is simply not the case. The poison dart naming comes from the fact that tribes in the rain forest used the poison on the tips of darts that they would use to subdue a threat.
The poison dart frog is not just one frog, but an entire species of frogs that contains well over 100 individual types of poison dart frogs. Usually, these frogs are quite small and measure less than 1 inch long, but some species can grow up to about 2.5 inches.
While the poison in many species of poison dart frogs may not be enough to kill a healthy human, their have been instances where the poison entered a cut or scratch which resulted in death. Their poison is quite effective in subduing their predators, however if a poison dart frog is born in captivity, it's unlikely that they will contain any poison. The poison that is developed in the frog while out in the wild is because of it's diet of ants, termites, beetles and other insects. When they no longer eat the poisonous beetles of Central America, the toxins in their body are no longer produced, making them harmless.
Most of us are accustomed to seeing frogs at the edge of a pond, marsh or stream, but the dart frog is different. It does not have webbed feet and is therefore not a good swimmer, so you won't find one of these frogs living in ponds.
Unfortunately, the Poison Dart frog is experiencing a population crisis and is on the endangered species list. Over the years, destruction of rain forest land as well as droughts in their regions, these frogs have decreased in numbers. Fortunately, pet Poison Dart Frogs are bred only in captivity and are not collected from the wild.
The bright colors of these frogs are just incredible and it's no wonder why people want to keep them as pets. With proper care, the Poison Dart Frog can live for many years in captivity.
To learn more about Poison Dart Frogs, check out Frog World. Poison Dart Frogs are wildly popular pet frogs and are entertaining to watch. There are many types of Poison Dart Frogs, each with distinctive colors and markings.

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Owner's Guide to Overheating in Iguanas

You're probably aware that iguanas are from tropical areas. This makes you think that overheating isn't a common problem, but it is. In the wild, iguanas can get out of the sun anytime they need to. In captivity, they rely on you to keep their temperature in a suitable range and provide them with a cooler area to go to.
It's very important that you have a few thermometers in your iguana's enclosure. This will allow you to monitor the temperature and do something if it gets too warm. You should try to have at least three thermometers spread throughout the enclosure.
The placement of the thermometers is also important. If you intend to use one to monitor the temperature in the middle of the enclosure, placing it on a side wall will give you an inaccurate reading. Therefore, you should put the thermometer in close proximity to the area you want to monitor.
If the temperature does happen to get out of control, you will want to know the signs of overheating in iguanas. The most noticeable symptom if panting and gaping his mouth. If you feel him, he will probably feel hot to the touch.
If your iguana is overheating, you should immediately remove him from the heat source. After being removed, he should cool down without further intervention. If you want to speed things along, you can put lukewarm water in a bottle and mist him.
You should also know that iguanas that overheat are very susceptible to dehydration. Therefore, if your iguana does suffer this condition, you need to make sure he gets rehydrated. The best way to do this is to feed him foods with high water content such as lettuce and watermelon.
Always keep an eye on the temperature in your iguana's enclosure to ensure he doesn't overheat. There are plenty of things all owners need to learn about proper iguana care. If you want to ensure your pet stays healthy for a long time, head over to green-iguana-care.com. Gets tips on a range of topics like setting up an iguana habitat

Wednesday, March 11, 2009

Newbie's Guide to Choosing Iguana Pets

Iguanas are one of the most common exotic pets. If you're considering getting one of these lizards, you should know a few things beforehand. Here are a few things you need to consider when buying iguana pets.
Once you've made the decision to buy an ig, you should start looking for an enclosure. It's best to have the enclosure setup before you bring him home. This will give you a chance to make sure the humidity and heat is adjusted well enough. This is especially important when getting a younger ig.
After you've got the enclosure, you need to decide where you want to get your iguana from. You'll have to choose between a pet store and adoption from a rescue shelter. You should know that pet stores generally don't give iguana pets the best care.
The igs are usually very stressed, and the employees may even give you invalid information about their proper care. If you want the best chance of getting a healthy pet, you should consider adoption. The rescuers generally take very good care of iguana pets.
Once you've decided where you want to get your ig from, you're ready to pick one out. You should make sure you check the iguana out thoroughly before you take him home. If you're buying a younger iguana, it's important that he's very energetic. An immature iguana that rarely moves around is in all likelihood sick. Older ones are usually less active, but can still be healthy.
It's also a good idea to check for parasites. Mites are some of the most common parasites. You can check for an infestation by looking closely at the iguana's scales. Mites will appear as small specks that are moving around.
Another common problem with iguana pets is dry gangrene. This condition causes symptoms such as blackened tail tips and toes. However, some iguanas naturally have black patterns, so you shouldn't get this confused with dry gangrene.
Now that you've decided to get one of these exotic pets, there is a lot you'll need to learn about green iguana care. So, click over to green-iguana-care.com right now to get started. So, come learn about a wide range of topics such as common iguana diseases

Tuesday, March 10, 2009

Heating For Your Iguana

Iguanas are ectothermic, which means that they can't make their own body heat. That's why it's so important that you provide them with proper heating. Their immune system will suffer and they won't be able to digest their food properly if you don't.
Like all reptiles, iguanas have a mechanism called thermoregulation. This allows them to heat or cool themselves from their environment. They simply move into a warmer area when they're too cold. Conversely, they move into a cooler area whenever they're too hot.
With this in mind, it's important that your ig's enclosure has warm and cool areas. This allows him to regulate his body heat like he would in the wild. The warmer area should be between 95 and 100 degrees Fahrenheit. The cooler area should have a temperature between 75 and 85 degrees. You can allow the ambient temperature to fall no lower than 70 degrees at night.
The temperature should never go above 100 or fall below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. To keep an eye on the temperature, you should have a few thermometers installed. It's best to place the thermometers very close to the area the you're trying to monitor. If it's too far away, you will get an inaccurate reading.
Now that you know your iguana's heating requirements, you will have two main options. You can use a ceramic bulb or a radiant heat panel. The heat panel is installed beneath the tank, while the ceramic bulb is installed in a socket. In a pinch, you can use the lowest setting of a heating pad designed for humans. You should avoid using heating or hot rocks. They can be very dangerous.
Providing proper heating is just one aspect of caring for iguanas. There are many more things you need to learn about green iguana care. If you want to ensure your pet stays healthy for a long time, head over to green-iguana-care.com. Learn about a range of topics such as common iguana health problems.

Monday, March 9, 2009

Iguana Owner's Guide to Blister Disease

Blister disease is a common problem for captive iguanas. It is also known by a few other names such as scale rot, vesicular dermatitis, and necrotizing dermatitis. This condition is usually caused by poor care.
Iguanas that are forced to live in unsanitary conditions are highly susceptible to blister disease. This is commonly a problem when the owner fails to clean up rotting food, feces, and urine in the enclosure. The iguana will be forced to lie in this dirty environment.
After living in these dirty conditions for a prolonged period, blisters will usually start to develop. These watery blisters can become infected wounds once they burst. This transfers bacteria inside the body which can infect the blood and internal organs. The area around the blisters may also start to rot away. This will make your iguana much more susceptible to secondary bacterial and fungal infections. It is very important that you seek veterinary advice as soon as you notice signs of blister disease. Immature iguanas can die very quickly from this condition. Iguanas suffering from other conditions or stress will likely have a weakened immune system which can make the condition rapidly fatal also.
The first order of treatment involves removal all rotting tissue and skin. This will be followed by aggressive antibiotic treatment. If you catch the disease in its earliest stages, you can soak your iguana in a Betadine solution once or twice each day. It's also vital that you clean and disinfect the enclosure before you put your iguana back in it. It's important that you clean your iguana's habitat on a regular basis. You shouldn't allow feces and urine to sit around. You should also remove any uneaten food on a daily basis.
There are many things all owners must learn about caring for iguanas. If you want to ensure that your pet stays healthy, stop by green-iguana-care.com today. Learn plenty of useful information like how to recognize the signs of a sick iguana

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Things to Consider Before You Buy a Pet Iguana

Many people buy iguanas on a whim before knowing what proper care really entails. Iguanas require very special care. There are many things you need to consider before you make the decision to buy a pet iguana. This article will discuss some of them.
Enclosure
You may see these small lizards in the store and think they'll stay the way forever. Wrong! Iguanas grow very fast. At a minimum, you will need a 55 gallon tank to house them. They can grow up to six feet long when cared for properly. After a while, the proper enclosure for them can easily take up half a room. Make sure you have enough space.
Money
Taking care of iguanas isn't all that cheap. They require a special diet, heat, and light. It's also important that you go for regular vet visits, which means even more money.
Vet
Speaking of vets, it's important that you don't take your pet iguana to just any vet. They need to be seen by a qualified reptile veterinarian, not one that mainly sees cats and dogs. If you live in a smaller city or town, you may have to drive a long distance to see this type of veterinarian. Definitely something to think about.
Time
It's also important that you'll have plenty of free time on your schedule to take care of your new pet. You will need to clean his enclosure on a daily basis to ensure he stays healthy. You should also make time to spend socializing and taming your iguana.
Comfort
As mentioned earlier, these reptiles can grow quite big. You need to be sure you will be comfortable handling a large pet iguana. It's also common for them to become quite aggressive each breeding season, so you'll need to be prepared for a yearly behavioral change. This can be a problem if you have small children in your household.
If you do make the decision to get one, you should start learning all you can about green iguana care. So, stop by green-iguana-care.com today to start learning. Pick up useful tips such as how to setup an iguana habitat

Saturday, March 7, 2009

Metabolic Bone Disease in Iguanas

Metabolic bone disease is a term used to describe various conditions that cause bone deformities in iguanas. Iguanas in the wild never suffer from this condition. It almost always occurs because of improper care by the owner.
Causes
This disease can be caused by one or more factors. The most common is a lack of calcium in the diet. When your iguana doesn't get enough calcium, his body will start leeching it from the bones. This leads to dramatic softening leaving your iguana very susceptible to fractures.
Metabolic bone disease can also result when there is an improper calcium to phosphorus ratio in the diet. Another common cause is not enough exposure to UVA and UVB. Iguanas need this light to manufacture their own vitamin D, which is essential for calcium metabolism. Other common causes include improper temperatures in the enclosure and diseases which cause a hormonal imbalance.
Symptoms
One of the first signs of metabolic bone disease isn't visible. If you feel the lower jaw bone, it will feel spongy or soft. It may also start to swell and make it difficult for your iguana to eat. This usually leads to loss of appetite. Your iguana's thinning bones will also cause him to suffer easily broken bones.
As the disease progresses, he may start experiencing episodes of twitching and tremoring. This usually occurs in the muscles of the toes and legs. He will also likely develop a jerky gait that you can easily notice when he walks.
Treatment
Treatment depends on the severity of the condition. The good news is that metabolic bone disease in iguanas can usually be treated when detected early. If your iguana has suffered any broken bones, they will need to be allowed to heal. If calcium deficiency is the underlying cause, then a strong calcium supplement may be prescribed. Other causes resulting from improper care will also need to be remedied to treat the disease.
It's best to do all you can to prevent metabolic bone disease. There are many things that owners need to learn about caring for iguanas. So, stop by green-iguana-care.com today to start learning all you need to know. Learn things such as how to recognize the signs of a sick iguana

Friday, March 6, 2009

Expert Tips For Iguana Proofing Your Home

Iguanas are very curious and can cause a lot of damage to your home or themselves if let roam around unattended. If you want your iguana and house to remain in one piece, you will need to "iguana-proof" your home. This article will give you a few tips.
Escape
First and foremost, you don't want your iguana to escape outside. Make sure all doors and windows in his area are closed tight. If you have a smaller lizard, then he may be able to fit under doorways easily. Therefore, you need to use a towel or other obstruction if you want to confine him to one room.
Cleanliness
It's very important that you keep the floor clean in the rooms where your iguana will be roaming. They will eat just about anything. Eating certain things can cause impaction which can easily be life-threatening. So, clean up all hair, strings, cloth, or anything else that may be ingested.
Plants
Iguanas love to eat plants. Unfortunately, certain plants are very toxic to them. If you have any plants in your home, you need to make sure that they're not toxic to your lizard. Even if the live plant itself isn't poisonous, the dirt it's sitting in can cause impaction. So, it's best not to have any plants around him at all.
Cords
Another common problem are electrical cords. Needless to say, your iguana will be in for a shock if he tries to bite through a cord carrying live power. In addition to biting them, they may also try to climb electrical cords. This may cause heavy objects to fall down and injure your iguana. The object itself will also probably be broken. Keep this in mind when letting your ig loose.
Pets
These exotic pets don't mix very well with more common pets. This is something you need to think about if you have a small animal or bird in your home. It's best that they're not around each other at all. If you do let them around each other, you need to watch them very closely. One of them can easily get injured severely.
These are a few tips for ig proofing your home. As an owner, there are probably many more things you need to learn about proper iguana care. Fortunately for you, green-iguana-care.com provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like common iguana health problems.

Thursday, March 5, 2009

Five Reasons Your Iguana May Be Aggressive

Living with an aggressive iguana can be a miserable experience. There are many reasons why your lizard may be overly aggressive towards you. This article will discuss some of the most common reasons.
Introduction
Many new owners bring their new iguana home and find that their new exotic pet is very aggressive towards them. You shouldn't be surprised if this happens because this is normal behavior. Iguanas need time to get used to their new surroundings. If you provide him with plenty of food and water, he should start behaving himself after a week or two.
Breeding
One of the most common reasons that your iguana is aggressive is because it's breeding season. Virtually all males start behaving like that at a certain time of the year. This even happens when your iguana is normally docile the rest of the year.
Stress
Another reason that your iguana may be aggressive is because he's stressed. This can occur for a number of reasons. Loud noises, other pets, and improper housing can all stress your iguana out. To help reduce this, you should provide him with a hiding box in his enclosure. This will provide the perfect place for him to relax whenever he gets stress.
Temperature
One of the most important aspects of caring for iguanas is providing them with proper temperatures. They need two distinct areas in their enclosure that are warmer and cooler. This allows them to regulate their body temperature. If there is just one temperature in the enclosure, your iguana will probably start acting aggressively. Providing improper temperature settings will also lead to various health problems.
Diet
Iguanas may also become aggressive if you don't feed them properly. They need nutrition as well as foods that provide the proper calcium to phosphorus ratio. Failure to do so will prevent your iguana from digesting his food properly which leads to stress and aggression.
As an owner, there are probably many more things you need to learn about proper green iguana care. Fortunately for you, green-iguana-care.com provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like iguana feeding

Wednesday, March 4, 2009

Safety Tips For Dealing With an Aggressive Iguana

Hostile iguanas can cause very serious harm to you. It's important that you're always cautious around these large lizards. Even those can are normally tame can turn on you in an instant. This article will give you a few tips on dealing with aggressive iguanas.
Scratching
They have very, very sharp claws. They can cut deeply through your skin very easily. Therefore, it's best to trim them on a regular basis. You can also keep a few rough surfaces inside the enclosure. This will help keep the nails from growing quickly so you won't have to trim them as often.
If you don't trim the nails regularly, you should get a quality pair of gloves to wear when handling the iguana. Falconry gloves are the best ones to buy. If you don't have the budget for them, you can get buy with a nice pair of welding gloves.
Biting
Another common method of attack is biting. They have plenty of sharp teeth to bite you with. If an iguana gets a good grip on you, it can be very hard to get him off. While trying to get him off, you may also cause him to lose some teeth. Gloves also help prevent biting.
Tail Whip
The tail whip is also a common attack from aggressive iguanas. Although it won't cause much damage, it can be very painful. However, it'll be a different story if you're whipped in the face or eyes specifically. You can minimize the damage caused by a tail whip by getting closer to the iguana so he can't extend his tail as far.
Jumping
It's also common for aggressive iguanas to jump at you for an aerial attack. A jump attack can leave you open to be bitten or scratched. These lizards can leap quite a few feet, so you'll need to keep your distance to prevent it from happening.
As an owner, there are probably many more things you need to learn about proper green iguana care. Fortunately for you, green-iguana-care.com provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like common iguana diseases

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

How to Tell Your Iguana's Sex

If you're like virtually every other owner, you'll want to know what sex your iguana is. It is impossible to tell until they reach sexual maturity. Therefore, you'll have to wait a few years if you get a baby iguana.
Females reach maturity when grow about 10 inches from snout to vent, while males do so about six inches from snout to vent. If your iguana is mature, there are a few ways you can tell what sex it is.
Tail
Males have hemipenal bulges near the base of the tail. Therefore, they are thicker than those of females. You should be able to spot the bulges easily if you turn your iguana on its side.
Femoral Pores
You can also help distinguish your iguana's sex by looking at the femoral pores. These pores are lines of dots that appear along the inside of the thighs. Males have large pores that are usually filled with a waxy substance. On the other hand, females have small pores that don't produce a waxy substance.
Jaw
One of the main differences between males and females is their jowl. Males have very large muscles on both sides of their lower jaw. Therefore, males are known for their enlarged jowls. Females have more pronounced jowls.
Head
Another common difference between sexes is the head. Females have smaller and sleeker heads. Males are usually block heads. This is much more pronounced due to the large jowls discussed previously. If you have a male, then you should also notice fatty deposits above the ear and behind the eye. Females don't have these fatty deposits.
Spikes
One of the final differences is the length of the dorsal spikes. Females have shorter dorsal spikes down their back. Male dorsal spikes are longer. The difference is very noticeable along the neck area.
These are a few ways you can tell the sex of your lizard. As an owner, there are probably many more things you need to learn about proper green iguana care. Fortunately for you, green-iguana-care.com provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like common iguana health problems.

Monday, March 2, 2009

How to Look After Turtles

Hey, I am Torty the tormented turtle and I stay as a pet in your terrapinarium. I am from a very respectable and well known family which can proudly declare to be the oldest surviving creatures of this planet! My ancestors inhabited this earth about 215 million years back, much before your forefathers; I mean the first human being appeared on it. Believe it or not, the enormous, fierce, and elegant dinosaurs were their next door neighbors!
But here, right now, I am sorry to pronounce that I am not happy at all. Everyday you watch me to have a great fun while I swim and glide back and forth inside the tank, but do you really have any concern for me? Do you love me? No, I suppose! Today let me tell you frankly that you do not take proper care of me at all. Day in and day out I suffer from various ailments just due to lack of your attention.
Unfortunately I can not express my pain and agony because God has not given me a vocal cord. I can not even scream for any help and suffer mutely from terrible pains. My tear blends silently with the awfully dirty water of the tank which you hardly cleaned or filtered.
But are you bothered for that? No, not at all! I am hurt and helpless and in real trouble, just because of your negligence! Well, it is said, to err is human and being a human you are also likely to commit error. Let me forgive this time and give a fair chance you.
I sincerely hope you will follow the guidelines given below and change your attitude henceforth:
  • Keep my surroundings and the tank water clean.
  • Provide balanced diet to keep me out of deficiency diseases.
  • While handling, hold me gently but firmly but please don't drop me on the floor.
  • I need a heater, a UV light, and a basking platform fitted in the tank as I am a cold blooded animal and cannot tolerate winter chill. Else I may hibernate!
  • While I hibernate, keep watching me to observe any unusual change.
Always consult a veterinary doctor in case you see the following symptoms:
Red and swollen eyes, breathing trouble, difficulty in swimming, loss of appetite, nasal secretions, bleeding wounds, soft and leathery carapace, or cracks on the shell.
For God's sake try to be a loving and caring pet owner!
For more information about pet turtle care visit: How to Look After Turtles

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Owner's Guide to Iguana Abscesses

One of the most common health problems that iguana owners may face is the formation of an abscess. Abscesses are simply areas of swelling at the site of an infection. This article will tell you everything you need to know about them.
The immune system of healthy iguanas can normally fight off invading bacteria. If your iguana has a weakened system because of stress or another reason, bacteria can easily can an infection. Abscesses form at the site of a localized bacterial infection.
It's usually easy to tell if your lizard has developed an abscess. The area will swell up considerably. The site may also ooze a yellowish substance and begin to form a crust. However, not all abscesses are easy to notice. It one forms deep into the tissue, the overlying skin may not be affected much, which will make it much harder for you to notice.
It's very important that you take your iguana to a vet if you suspect he has an abscess. As long as bacteria are present in his body, it will keep multiplying and spreading out. This can lead to the formation of internal abscesses. In these cases, treatment is much less successful.
Abscesses have to be treated surgically. The vet will cut into the swollen area and clean out all of the material. Since he may not be able to remove all material at one time, your iguana may have to undergo more than one surgery. Once the area has been cleaned out, a course of injectable antibiotics will need to be administered to get rid of the invading bacteria.
This is everything you need to know about dealing with abscesses. As an owner, there are probably many more things you need to learn about taking care of iguanas. Fortunately for you, green-iguana-care.com provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like proper iguana lighting and heating for iguanas

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Newbie's Guide to Feeding Bearded Dragons

Your bearded dragon needs a proper diet to stay healthy. He is omnivorous which means he eats fruits, vegetables, as well as insects. This article will tell you everything you need to know about feeding bearded dragons.
Protein
If you have a baby or juvenile dragon, it's important that you provide plenty of protein in his diet. The extra protein is needed to help bones and tissues grow. Therefore, make sure you feed babies and juveniles plenty of insects in addition to vegetables. Adult dragons should have less insects and plenty of fruits and vegetables.
Insects
There are a variety of insects that you can feed your bearded dragon. They include crickets, earthworms, cockroaches, wax worms, and silk worms. It's best not to feed wax worms too often because they're very high in fat. Also, silkworms have hard exoskeletons, so you shouldn't try to feed them to younger lizards.
The insects should never be larger than the width between your dragon's eyes. If the insect is too big, it could cause a blockage, seizure, or malnourishment. You can feed as many insects as he can eat in 15 minutes. Make sure that you don't leave any uneaten insects inside the enclosure.
Vegetables
You should feed fresh vegetables daily. Some of the most popular choices include collard greens, dandelion greens, cabbage, cucumber, and peas. You can also feed your bearded dragon carrots, squash, green beans, and broccoli. Make sure you don't get feed iceberg lettuce too often. He can easily become hooked and it provides no nutritional benefits.
Fruits
It's also important to feed bearded dragon's fruits on a daily basis. Strawberries, mango, melon, apples, grapes, and pears are all good choices. Other suitable fruits include raspberries, peaches, and cantaloupe. Make sure that you don't feed your dragon lemons, oranges, or other acidic fruits.
These are a few tips for feeding your bearded dragon. As an owner, there are probably many more things you need to learn about proper bearded dragon care. Fortunately for you, bearded-dragon-care.net provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like bearded dragon housing

Friday, February 27, 2009

Newbie's Guide to Heating For Bearded Dragons

You need to provide your bearded dragon with external heat due to the fact that he's cold-blooded. If he can't properly regulate his body temperature, he will be unable to fend off diseases and digest food properly. There are a few things you need to know about providing bearded dragon heating. This article will tell you everything you need to know.

You can't have the temperature the same throughout the whole terrarium. You have to set up a temperature gradient. The warmer sides needs to be anywhere from the mid 80s to the mid 90s. The cooler side should be between the mid 70s and mid 80s.

Bearded dragons love to bask in the sun in the morning to heat themselves up. Therefore, it's important that you setup a basking area. If you have an adult, this area should have a temperature between 100 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit. If you have a juvenile, you can have the maximum temperature up to 110 degrees.

Obviously in the wild, the temperature drops whenever the sun goes down. Therefore, the nighttime temperature in the cage needs to be cooler than the daytime temp. It should ideally be in the low 70s. One of the best options is to use a ceramic heat bulb to provide the necessary heat at night. Unlike other bulbs, it won't emit much light while producing heat.

It's very important that you monitor the temperature in the cage. You don't want your bearded dragon to be too cold or too hot. You should invest in a few quality thermometers. Place the thermometers as close to the area that you wish to monitor. If it's too far apart, you will probably get an inaccurate reading.

As an owner, there are likely many more things you need to learn about proper bearded dragon care. Fortunately for you, bearded-dragon-care.net provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like feeding bearded dragons

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Four Bearded Dragon Diseases Revealed

Bearded dragons usually remain healthy if you give them proper temperature, housing, and light. But even with the best care, they may experience various bearded dragon diseases. Some of these conditions include metabolic bone disease, egg binding, and stomatitis. This article will discuss some of the most common bearded dragon diseases.

Metabolic Bone Disease

Lizards in the wild don't suffer from metabolic bone disease. This problem is caused by improper care by the owner. An imbalance of vitamin D3, phosphorus, and calcium from the diet is one of the main causes. Too little UVB light can also be to blame.

The most prominent sign of this disorder is softening and swelling of the lower jaw. Your dragon may also develop lumps and bumps along his legs, back, and tail. If left untreated, your lizard will die. To treat the condition, the underlying cause needs to be fixed. Calcium supplements may also need to be prescribed.

Stomatitis

One of the next common bearded dragon diseases is stomatitis, commonly referred to as mouth rot. Although it isn't really a disease, it is a sign of an underlying infection. Bearded dragons with mouth rot will develop a grayish or whitish substance on the soft tissues in their mouth. If the condition is allowed to progress, the teeth will become loose and the gums may start to bleed. The underlying infection needs to be treated, or this condition will keep giving your beardie problems.

Egg Binding

Male dragon owners can relax, as egg binding only affects female. This condition occurs whenever she is unable to pass one or more eggs through the reproductive tract. Various illnesses, improper diet, obesity, and malformed eggs can all cause egg binding in bearded dragons. Since it can be fatal within days, a veterinarian needs to be consulted immediately. If drugs to induce egg laying don't correct the problem, your dragon will need to undergo surgery.

Adenovirus

An infection by an adenovirus is relatively rare in bearded dragons. This is a very good thing as most don't survive. Young dragons or those with weakened immune systems are particularly susceptible. This disease is made more troublesome because it doesn't produce many noticeable symptoms. Fluids, forced feeding, and antibiotics are used to try to treat an adenovirus infection.

As an owner, there is much more bearded dragon info that you need to learn. Fortunately for you, bearded-dragon-care.net provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like providing a proper bearded dragon diet

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Iguana Owner's Guide to Egg Binding

Egg binding is a condition in which the iguana is unable to expel eggs from the reproductive tract. It only occurs in females who have reached sexual maturity. This condition is extremely serious and can prove to be fatal in mere days. So, what exactly causes it?

Causes

There are many, many different causes of egg binding in iguanas. It can occur if the female's system produced large or malformed eggs. Some are born with an anatomical defect that prevents them from passing eggs. If you don't provide them with a proper nesting site, some females will procrastinate until the eggs are too large to pass. Other common causes include obesity, lack of calcium, malnutrition, and kidney disease.

Symptoms

Pregnant iguanas can have swollen abdomens. However, this is also a common symptom of egg binding. You will also notice that your iguana is much less active and appears to be depressed. Although they will keep straining to lay eggs, they won't be able to.

Diagnosis

Although a physical exam will likely be performed, it is very difficult for veterinarians to determine if iguanas are egg-bound or just pregnant by this method alone. It's necessary to at least perform an x-ray to make a definitive diagnosis. An x-ray or ultrasound will help determine if there are any eggs present and their location.

Treatment

The veterinarian will have multiple options when treating egg binding in iguanas. If he is experienced enough, he may elect to lubricate the cloaca and gently try to coax the egg out. This is risky because it's usually fatal if the eggs breaks open inside the female. Surgery is a more common option. During surgery to remove the eggs, the entire reproductive tract may be removed to prevent the problem from happening again.

This is everything you need to know about egg binding. As an owner, there are probably many more things you need to learn about caring for iguanas properly. Fortunately for you, green-iguana-care.com provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like common iguana diseases.

Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Cold Blooded Alchemy


Cold Blooded Alchemy


"Alchemy is the art of manipulating life, and consciousness in matter, to help it evolve, or to solve problems of inner disharmonies." - Jean Dubuis

I've been fascinated by reptiles since I was a little girl living in the Arizona desert. With the help of my dad I set up floor to ceilings shelving in my bedroom to keep all the lizards, snakes, and insects that I was constantly bringing home from my adventures around our home. My mother finally had to draw the line when I brought home a jar full of poisonous scorpions and they escaped!

I currently keep a variety of animals, and dabble a little in breeding and importing. If you’re interested in a species and haven’t been able to find it locally, let me know and I’ll see what I can do to find it. My interests now tend to run along the lines of genetics, so I generally restrict my breeding to leopard geckos or cresteds, but occasionally I have other captive bred species available.

This is my new blog to support updates and news from my website at http://www.coldbloodedalchemy.com as well as interesting news, pictures or videos that I find on the web and want to share with friends and readers because I liked them and thought you might too!

Hope you enjoy!