Tuesday, March 3, 2009

How to Tell Your Iguana's Sex

If you're like virtually every other owner, you'll want to know what sex your iguana is. It is impossible to tell until they reach sexual maturity. Therefore, you'll have to wait a few years if you get a baby iguana.
Females reach maturity when grow about 10 inches from snout to vent, while males do so about six inches from snout to vent. If your iguana is mature, there are a few ways you can tell what sex it is.
Tail
Males have hemipenal bulges near the base of the tail. Therefore, they are thicker than those of females. You should be able to spot the bulges easily if you turn your iguana on its side.
Femoral Pores
You can also help distinguish your iguana's sex by looking at the femoral pores. These pores are lines of dots that appear along the inside of the thighs. Males have large pores that are usually filled with a waxy substance. On the other hand, females have small pores that don't produce a waxy substance.
Jaw
One of the main differences between males and females is their jowl. Males have very large muscles on both sides of their lower jaw. Therefore, males are known for their enlarged jowls. Females have more pronounced jowls.
Head
Another common difference between sexes is the head. Females have smaller and sleeker heads. Males are usually block heads. This is much more pronounced due to the large jowls discussed previously. If you have a male, then you should also notice fatty deposits above the ear and behind the eye. Females don't have these fatty deposits.
Spikes
One of the final differences is the length of the dorsal spikes. Females have shorter dorsal spikes down their back. Male dorsal spikes are longer. The difference is very noticeable along the neck area.
These are a few ways you can tell the sex of your lizard. As an owner, there are probably many more things you need to learn about proper green iguana care. Fortunately for you, green-iguana-care.com provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like common iguana health problems.

Monday, March 2, 2009

How to Look After Turtles

Hey, I am Torty the tormented turtle and I stay as a pet in your terrapinarium. I am from a very respectable and well known family which can proudly declare to be the oldest surviving creatures of this planet! My ancestors inhabited this earth about 215 million years back, much before your forefathers; I mean the first human being appeared on it. Believe it or not, the enormous, fierce, and elegant dinosaurs were their next door neighbors!
But here, right now, I am sorry to pronounce that I am not happy at all. Everyday you watch me to have a great fun while I swim and glide back and forth inside the tank, but do you really have any concern for me? Do you love me? No, I suppose! Today let me tell you frankly that you do not take proper care of me at all. Day in and day out I suffer from various ailments just due to lack of your attention.
Unfortunately I can not express my pain and agony because God has not given me a vocal cord. I can not even scream for any help and suffer mutely from terrible pains. My tear blends silently with the awfully dirty water of the tank which you hardly cleaned or filtered.
But are you bothered for that? No, not at all! I am hurt and helpless and in real trouble, just because of your negligence! Well, it is said, to err is human and being a human you are also likely to commit error. Let me forgive this time and give a fair chance you.
I sincerely hope you will follow the guidelines given below and change your attitude henceforth:
  • Keep my surroundings and the tank water clean.
  • Provide balanced diet to keep me out of deficiency diseases.
  • While handling, hold me gently but firmly but please don't drop me on the floor.
  • I need a heater, a UV light, and a basking platform fitted in the tank as I am a cold blooded animal and cannot tolerate winter chill. Else I may hibernate!
  • While I hibernate, keep watching me to observe any unusual change.
Always consult a veterinary doctor in case you see the following symptoms:
Red and swollen eyes, breathing trouble, difficulty in swimming, loss of appetite, nasal secretions, bleeding wounds, soft and leathery carapace, or cracks on the shell.
For God's sake try to be a loving and caring pet owner!
For more information about pet turtle care visit: How to Look After Turtles

Sunday, March 1, 2009

Owner's Guide to Iguana Abscesses

One of the most common health problems that iguana owners may face is the formation of an abscess. Abscesses are simply areas of swelling at the site of an infection. This article will tell you everything you need to know about them.
The immune system of healthy iguanas can normally fight off invading bacteria. If your iguana has a weakened system because of stress or another reason, bacteria can easily can an infection. Abscesses form at the site of a localized bacterial infection.
It's usually easy to tell if your lizard has developed an abscess. The area will swell up considerably. The site may also ooze a yellowish substance and begin to form a crust. However, not all abscesses are easy to notice. It one forms deep into the tissue, the overlying skin may not be affected much, which will make it much harder for you to notice.
It's very important that you take your iguana to a vet if you suspect he has an abscess. As long as bacteria are present in his body, it will keep multiplying and spreading out. This can lead to the formation of internal abscesses. In these cases, treatment is much less successful.
Abscesses have to be treated surgically. The vet will cut into the swollen area and clean out all of the material. Since he may not be able to remove all material at one time, your iguana may have to undergo more than one surgery. Once the area has been cleaned out, a course of injectable antibiotics will need to be administered to get rid of the invading bacteria.
This is everything you need to know about dealing with abscesses. As an owner, there are probably many more things you need to learn about taking care of iguanas. Fortunately for you, green-iguana-care.com provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like proper iguana lighting and heating for iguanas

Saturday, February 28, 2009

Newbie's Guide to Feeding Bearded Dragons

Your bearded dragon needs a proper diet to stay healthy. He is omnivorous which means he eats fruits, vegetables, as well as insects. This article will tell you everything you need to know about feeding bearded dragons.
Protein
If you have a baby or juvenile dragon, it's important that you provide plenty of protein in his diet. The extra protein is needed to help bones and tissues grow. Therefore, make sure you feed babies and juveniles plenty of insects in addition to vegetables. Adult dragons should have less insects and plenty of fruits and vegetables.
Insects
There are a variety of insects that you can feed your bearded dragon. They include crickets, earthworms, cockroaches, wax worms, and silk worms. It's best not to feed wax worms too often because they're very high in fat. Also, silkworms have hard exoskeletons, so you shouldn't try to feed them to younger lizards.
The insects should never be larger than the width between your dragon's eyes. If the insect is too big, it could cause a blockage, seizure, or malnourishment. You can feed as many insects as he can eat in 15 minutes. Make sure that you don't leave any uneaten insects inside the enclosure.
Vegetables
You should feed fresh vegetables daily. Some of the most popular choices include collard greens, dandelion greens, cabbage, cucumber, and peas. You can also feed your bearded dragon carrots, squash, green beans, and broccoli. Make sure you don't get feed iceberg lettuce too often. He can easily become hooked and it provides no nutritional benefits.
Fruits
It's also important to feed bearded dragon's fruits on a daily basis. Strawberries, mango, melon, apples, grapes, and pears are all good choices. Other suitable fruits include raspberries, peaches, and cantaloupe. Make sure that you don't feed your dragon lemons, oranges, or other acidic fruits.
These are a few tips for feeding your bearded dragon. As an owner, there are probably many more things you need to learn about proper bearded dragon care. Fortunately for you, bearded-dragon-care.net provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like bearded dragon housing

Friday, February 27, 2009

Newbie's Guide to Heating For Bearded Dragons

You need to provide your bearded dragon with external heat due to the fact that he's cold-blooded. If he can't properly regulate his body temperature, he will be unable to fend off diseases and digest food properly. There are a few things you need to know about providing bearded dragon heating. This article will tell you everything you need to know.

You can't have the temperature the same throughout the whole terrarium. You have to set up a temperature gradient. The warmer sides needs to be anywhere from the mid 80s to the mid 90s. The cooler side should be between the mid 70s and mid 80s.

Bearded dragons love to bask in the sun in the morning to heat themselves up. Therefore, it's important that you setup a basking area. If you have an adult, this area should have a temperature between 100 and 105 degrees Fahrenheit. If you have a juvenile, you can have the maximum temperature up to 110 degrees.

Obviously in the wild, the temperature drops whenever the sun goes down. Therefore, the nighttime temperature in the cage needs to be cooler than the daytime temp. It should ideally be in the low 70s. One of the best options is to use a ceramic heat bulb to provide the necessary heat at night. Unlike other bulbs, it won't emit much light while producing heat.

It's very important that you monitor the temperature in the cage. You don't want your bearded dragon to be too cold or too hot. You should invest in a few quality thermometers. Place the thermometers as close to the area that you wish to monitor. If it's too far apart, you will probably get an inaccurate reading.

As an owner, there are likely many more things you need to learn about proper bearded dragon care. Fortunately for you, bearded-dragon-care.net provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like feeding bearded dragons

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Four Bearded Dragon Diseases Revealed

Bearded dragons usually remain healthy if you give them proper temperature, housing, and light. But even with the best care, they may experience various bearded dragon diseases. Some of these conditions include metabolic bone disease, egg binding, and stomatitis. This article will discuss some of the most common bearded dragon diseases.

Metabolic Bone Disease

Lizards in the wild don't suffer from metabolic bone disease. This problem is caused by improper care by the owner. An imbalance of vitamin D3, phosphorus, and calcium from the diet is one of the main causes. Too little UVB light can also be to blame.

The most prominent sign of this disorder is softening and swelling of the lower jaw. Your dragon may also develop lumps and bumps along his legs, back, and tail. If left untreated, your lizard will die. To treat the condition, the underlying cause needs to be fixed. Calcium supplements may also need to be prescribed.

Stomatitis

One of the next common bearded dragon diseases is stomatitis, commonly referred to as mouth rot. Although it isn't really a disease, it is a sign of an underlying infection. Bearded dragons with mouth rot will develop a grayish or whitish substance on the soft tissues in their mouth. If the condition is allowed to progress, the teeth will become loose and the gums may start to bleed. The underlying infection needs to be treated, or this condition will keep giving your beardie problems.

Egg Binding

Male dragon owners can relax, as egg binding only affects female. This condition occurs whenever she is unable to pass one or more eggs through the reproductive tract. Various illnesses, improper diet, obesity, and malformed eggs can all cause egg binding in bearded dragons. Since it can be fatal within days, a veterinarian needs to be consulted immediately. If drugs to induce egg laying don't correct the problem, your dragon will need to undergo surgery.

Adenovirus

An infection by an adenovirus is relatively rare in bearded dragons. This is a very good thing as most don't survive. Young dragons or those with weakened immune systems are particularly susceptible. This disease is made more troublesome because it doesn't produce many noticeable symptoms. Fluids, forced feeding, and antibiotics are used to try to treat an adenovirus infection.

As an owner, there is much more bearded dragon info that you need to learn. Fortunately for you, bearded-dragon-care.net provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like providing a proper bearded dragon diet

Saturday, February 21, 2009

Iguana Owner's Guide to Egg Binding

Egg binding is a condition in which the iguana is unable to expel eggs from the reproductive tract. It only occurs in females who have reached sexual maturity. This condition is extremely serious and can prove to be fatal in mere days. So, what exactly causes it?

Causes

There are many, many different causes of egg binding in iguanas. It can occur if the female's system produced large or malformed eggs. Some are born with an anatomical defect that prevents them from passing eggs. If you don't provide them with a proper nesting site, some females will procrastinate until the eggs are too large to pass. Other common causes include obesity, lack of calcium, malnutrition, and kidney disease.

Symptoms

Pregnant iguanas can have swollen abdomens. However, this is also a common symptom of egg binding. You will also notice that your iguana is much less active and appears to be depressed. Although they will keep straining to lay eggs, they won't be able to.

Diagnosis

Although a physical exam will likely be performed, it is very difficult for veterinarians to determine if iguanas are egg-bound or just pregnant by this method alone. It's necessary to at least perform an x-ray to make a definitive diagnosis. An x-ray or ultrasound will help determine if there are any eggs present and their location.

Treatment

The veterinarian will have multiple options when treating egg binding in iguanas. If he is experienced enough, he may elect to lubricate the cloaca and gently try to coax the egg out. This is risky because it's usually fatal if the eggs breaks open inside the female. Surgery is a more common option. During surgery to remove the eggs, the entire reproductive tract may be removed to prevent the problem from happening again.

This is everything you need to know about egg binding. As an owner, there are probably many more things you need to learn about caring for iguanas properly. Fortunately for you, green-iguana-care.com provides everything you need. So, stop by today to start learning about a wide range of topics like common iguana diseases.